Weathering a Factory Paint Job: Method

STEP 1: BASE COAT

 

  • Remove the rivets with a drill and separate the vehicles layers.

 

  • Glue any additional parts to the chassis and interior (we added some armoured hub-caps and a custom steering wheel). 

 

Additional parts for the body shell can either be glued on unprimed before the varnish base coat is applied or primed black and attached after the varnish base coat has dried.

We kept it simple with a repair patch, some stowage and an AutoKill hood exit exhaust.

 

  • Apply an even spray base coat to both sides of each layer.

 

Chassis: Black.

 

Interior: Black.

 

Body: Clear matt varnish. The spray varnish will create a frosted effect on the plastic of the windscreen so be sure to remove it if you want to keep it’s transparency.

 

Allow to dry completely.

STEP 2: WEATHERING

 

This is the same process we use for our simple paint job.

 

  • Tear the sponge to the size and shape that suits the area being painted and dab off most of the paint before applying it to the model.

 

  • Working from dark to light, apply 3 tones of brown acrylic paint using a fine sponge: Burnt umber/Flat Brown/ Mahogany Brown. 

 

Chassis: 

  • Apply normally to the underside and wheels.

 

Interior: 

  • Apply moderately to the entire layer.

 

Body: 

  • Select exposed metal features as well as areas of wear and tear including wheel arches, raised edges and damaged surfaces. Very lightly drag a virtually dry sponge against each area in small front to back motions to build up an effect of directional wear. Take care to avoid detailed areas such as lights.

  • Once you’ve weathered the body, take a fine detail brush and trace all recessed panel lines with medium or dark brown ink (use darker inks for darker body colours). This really helps create depth and define detail.

STEP 3: DETAILING

 

With the weathering complete the final details can be added.

 

Chassis: 

  • Apply a light metallic drybrush to the underside and hubcaps. 

  • If there’s an empty licence plate then a suitable decal with numbers and letters can be cut to fit, (military kits are a good source). 

  • Finish the tyres with a coat of black acrylic ink and a final dusting of weathering pigments that suit your build, we used a light application of sand effects.

 

 

Interior: 

  • Drybrush the seats and other suitable features with your colour of choice. Complementary or contrasting colours to the body can create balanced and striking effects. 

 

 

Body: 

  • Apply a very light drybrushing of metallic silver over the body concentrating on the areas of wear. Pick out any polished metal surfaces using a lighter tone of silver to really make them pop. 

 

Details:

  • Drops of acrylic gel can be added to the head lights using a brush tip or cocktail stick to create a transparent lens effect. 

  • Wing mirror glass is effectively suggested with a chrome pen, a couple of careful dabs builds up a bright reflective surface. 

  • Indicator lights can be picked out with a touch of bright orange paint. 

  • Windscreen wipers can be neatly defined with a black Sharpie.

 

Other physical effects are easily added using powders and inks. Details such as scorch marks from flame and energy weapons or run off from fuel caps can add great narrative touches and realism to your build.

 

  • Apply a light dusting of weathering powder across the chassis and lower body to help tie the layers together.

 

  • A final coat of matt varnish spray will seal your work and protect it from the rigours of gameplay.

Now you can hit the streets.
Box fresh to battered in 60 mins.